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漿果即將翻譯的文章，摘自美國知名咖啡雜志「ROAST MAGAZINE」2015年4月8日由美國著名咖啡達人Shawn Steiman投稿。他一生研究咖啡種植，他是生物學(xué)博士后，為咖啡種植專研一生。他深入研究咖啡科學(xué)，如咖啡的生產(chǎn)、昆蟲學(xué)、生態(tài)學(xué)、生理學(xué)等等學(xué)科，從而優(yōu)化咖啡品質(zhì)以及煮咖啡工藝。
在翻譯他的文章之前，想和大家說明一個英語問題。Altitude和Elevation有什么區(qū)別。雖然兩者皆為「海拔」的意思。"Altitude is typically only used to describe the height of an aircraft in flight. It is a barometric measurement expressed relative to the height of a runway or mean sea level in a given location or region (taking into account current local atmospheric conditions), or to an arbitrary standard datum (to eliminate the effect of localised variations in air pressure).Elevation is usually used to describe the height of the ground, or a feature fixed to the ground. It is a geometric measurement expressed relative to the mean sea level datum established for the region by the national mapping agency."簡單的說，Altitude就是真正的以海平面為基準的高度，而Elevation是以地球上某一個地面的垂直距離，也就是「地拔」。曉得了伐？好了，以下是譯文：What’s So important about High-Altitude Coffee?高海拔種植咖啡為啥那么有逼格？It is pretty common to hear people talk about the importance of growing coffee at high elevations. Advertisements for mountain grown coffee date back more than 50 years and coffee companies still brag about coffees that come from high elevations. It makes you wonder if there’s something magical about mountainsides or being far away from the sea.不少人都認為咖啡種植的海拔高度是非常重要的。50多年前就開始有好多咖啡種植的產(chǎn)區(qū)開始宣稱自己的咖啡是高海拔種植的，至今太多的、以營利為目的地咖啡貿(mào)易商經(jīng)常編造自己的咖啡為高山種植咖啡來矇騙消費者。就像國內(nèi)很多的「高山紅米」「高山茶葉」一樣，都是騙人的把戲。這就讓人遐想那些高山咖啡是不是仙人種的，還是“在那山地那邊、海地那邊有一群藍精靈”種的。As it turns out, the scientific data is equivocal on the subject. Some research demonstrates a difference in taste as elevation changes while some does not. Many people in the coffee industry, including this author, have experience that suggests different altitudes produce different cup profiles; coffees grown higher up tend to be more acidy and complex while lower elevations tend to be more intensely coffee flavored. If there really is a difference in elevation, what’s going on? 然而，事實證明，科學(xué)證明這種學(xué)說不完全值得信任。有些科學(xué)數(shù)據(jù)雖然證明根據(jù)海拔的高地豆子的風(fēng)味有所改變，但是有些數(shù)據(jù)也是不能證明這一點的。很多咖啡業(yè)界人士，包括筆者本人，通過他們的工作經(jīng)驗可以證明出不同海拔的豆子在杯測時確實反響不同。咖啡業(yè)界人士均發(fā)現(xiàn)海拔越高的豆子的酸度越高并且味譜越複雜。但是令人驚奇的是，仍然有些低海拔的豆子風(fēng)味十足。如果真如本文題目所云，那為何卻又如此異議？
Any athlete will tell you that the air in thinner at higher altitudes. This is because there’s lower air pressure up there (the weight of all the air that presses down on everything), causing less oxygen to be present in any given breath of air. Plants, however, don’t seem to care much about this. While nobody has tested the effects of different air pressures on coffee plants, researchers doing space research (astronauts need to eat, right!?) have shown that lettuce leaves changed somewhat when grown in different air pressures. However, none of the research examines the taste. Radishes, on the other hand, barely responded at all to different air pressures (unless the air pressure is very, very low). More interesting, the flavor of radishes and some chemical markers that stand in for flavor, didn’t change when the radishes were grown in different air pressure conditions. Lettuce (leaves) and radishes (roots) are different types of plant organs than coffee (seeds), so it is hard to draw a strong comparison from these examples. However, considering the nature of the changes in lettuce and coffee being a seed, it is unlikely that air pressure is influencing the cup quality of coffee.所有的長跑運動員都會告訴你，海拔越高空氣越稀薄。只是因為海拔越高，氣壓越低，從而導(dǎo)致空氣中的氧氣含量降低。但是，對于植物來講，低氣壓對于他們卻不是那麼重要。至今為止，沒有一個人做過咖啡樹根據(jù)氣壓的改變從而受影響的程度的實驗。就好比太空人要吃飯一樣，他們會因為吃什麼而改變他們是人麼？但是有人對生菜在不同氣壓下種植時葉子的變化進行了專項研究，媽的，研究有個屁用，那些人根本沒有品嚐生菜味道的變化。還有一些人無聊地研究根類蔬菜代表蘿卜在不同壓力下的生長狀況，除非氣壓非常非常的低會發(fā)生「死掉」的狀況外，其馀也沒有什麼不同之處。那麼，葉類作物代表生菜和根類作物代表蘿卜與咖啡這一胚胎類作物相對比都沒有顯著的區(qū)別，但是畢竟咖啡漿果是要處理成生豆，再烘培，再沖出一杯美味的咖啡，這麼複雜的工序那說明海拔或多或少還是會影響咖啡的品質(zhì)的。A change in air pressure is only one difference that happens at higher altitudes. The other is that the temperature drops. It has been well documented that temperature affects many aspects of plant growth and development across a range of species, including food plants like coffee. As air pressure seems not to be too important in influencing coffee’s taste, it is reasonable to assume, then, that the change in temperature at higher elevations is what is influencing our brew.大氣壓強的變化對于海拔高低來講只是其中的一個變數(shù)。還有一個可能被大家忽略的就是氣溫。海拔越高，溫度越低。在這一點上已經(jīng)是有據(jù)可查的。溫度對很多農(nóng)作物的生長和種植都是有很大的影響的，當(dāng)然也包括咖啡。如此看來海拔高低從而改變大氣壓強是不怎麼會影響咖啡口感的，但是高海拔地區(qū)的低溫真的在影響我們口中的咖啡了。
To support this, we must consider that, across the globe, temperature is influenced not just by elevation. A major factor is latitude. As the distance from the equator increases, temperatures at a given elevation decrease. So, 2500 feet above sea level in Hawaii is a much cooler climate than 2500 feet above sea level in Colombia. Whereas coffee grown in Hawaii at that elevation can be acidy and complex, it is rarely found to be so in Colombia, even though the elevation is the same. While many factors influence the flavor of a cup of coffee, the temperature at which it grows seems to be one of them. Thus, looking at elevation alone is not very useful, rather, the interaction of altitude and latitude and their influence on temperature is what matters.為了證實這一點，我們必須在全球范圍內(nèi)考慮海拔對咖啡種植的影響，而不是地拔。因為地拔不一定會影響溫度，而海拔一定會。其中重要原委之一便是緯度。當(dāng)以赤道為中心南北緯度增加時，在相同地拔的溫度降低。因此一個最顯著的例子便是：海拔兩千五百英遲（800米）的夏威夷之氣候要比海拔兩千五百英遲（800米）的哥倫比亞的氣候涼爽的多。因此，在夏威夷那里種植的咖啡酸度更高、風(fēng)味更複雜。但是在哥倫比亞絕非如此，即使是海拔和地拔幾乎接近同一數(shù)值。如此看來，溫度只是影響咖啡風(fēng)味的其中一個因素，因此只看咖啡種植的地拔是非常不科學(xué)的，相反，海拔和緯度的相互作用以及它們對溫度的影響是最重要的。讀完了Shawn的文章，似乎懂得了無論做任何事情，都要持之以恒，尋根溯源。否則便只會機械地去做無用功，去創(chuàng)造一些保量卻不保質(zhì)的無用功。漿果堅信，當(dāng)你把一件複雜的事情做簡單的時候，你的內(nèi)心會無比的空虛和寂寞；當(dāng)你把一件簡單的事情做複雜的時候，你才會找到人世間的真諦，任何事，所有事。版權(quán)信息：以上文章轉(zhuǎn)自公眾號【漿果精品咖啡】，轉(zhuǎn)載請注明出處原文翻譯： 漿果夫婦侵權(quán)請聯(lián)系： weixin@coffeesalon.com投稿合作： tips@coffeesalon.com
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