《WBC 2016 Rules Shake-up》這是本周The Barista Hustle文章的標(biāo)題。Matt寫(xiě)出這篇文章就是要討論一下最近精品咖啡圈發(fā)生的一件大事。
在這里先補(bǔ)充一下背景,最近WCE的官網(wǎng)上出現(xiàn)了一條比較轟動(dòng)的消息——下一屆的WBC比賽會(huì)進(jìn)行兩處變革(原文地址:http://www.worldcoffeeevents.org/evolving-the-wbc-2016/)。
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變革有兩方面: (一)比賽中選手使用的咖啡機(jī)和磨豆機(jī)都將是被限定的,咖啡機(jī)是早前就已經(jīng)披露出來(lái)的VIctoria Arduino "Black Eagle",磨豆機(jī)被指定為MAHLK?NIG K30 Vario,選手不再可以自由選擇磨豆機(jī);
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(二)制作環(huán)節(jié)里面,卡布奇諾環(huán)節(jié)將被替換成"牛奶咖啡環(huán)節(jié)",對(duì)于參賽者的要求從以前嚴(yán)格定義的卡布奇諾放寬到參賽選手可以自由選擇單份濃縮和牛奶的比例。 WCE會(huì)在接下來(lái)的西雅圖WBC比賽期間發(fā)表關(guān)于比賽規(guī)則變化的聲明,更詳細(xì)的規(guī)則介紹會(huì)同時(shí)披露出來(lái),新的規(guī)則會(huì)在2016年的都柏林WBC開(kāi)始使用。
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這條消息對(duì)于精品咖啡屆有很大的影響,所以一貫在Hustle上分享技術(shù)類(lèi)文章的Matthew Perger在這一期就這些變化做了一些自己的評(píng)述。 關(guān)于指定用磨的部分,Matt像很多人一樣是持支持的態(tài)度。"A compulsory grinder levels the playing field."指定用磨的意圖也是為了創(chuàng)造出一個(gè)更加公正的比賽環(huán)境。
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引述James Hoffman(2007屆WBC冠軍)的話(huà):“It’s a tricky subject to comment on succinctly. When I competed in 2007 I used the spo
nsored grinder, which seemed to shock a lot of people. I didn’t really have a job at that time, and I simply couldn’t afford to ship a grinder across the world. As such, I actually like the idea of a level playing field. Barista competition isn’t a
bout replicating the cafe, or the real world. It is a game, sport if you will, ba
sed on making coffee. The competition has a positive impact on many aspects of speciality coffee, and if this decision helps make the competition more sustainable then I am for it. I understand that people will be frustrated, that they feel that this will deprive them of the ability to serve what they want – but that could be said a
bout everything from the machine to the water. I hope this doesn’t put people off competing – it would be a shame for them to miss out on all of the benefits of competition.” James 在2007年的比賽用磨其實(shí)就是舉辦方的磨豆機(jī),談到WBC他更加傾向于把它看作是一場(chǎng)體育競(jìng)技項(xiàng)目,比賽現(xiàn)場(chǎng)所要展現(xiàn)的就是咖啡師日常工作的技能,參賽者的注意力理所應(yīng)當(dāng)?shù)囊旁诩夹g(shù)層面上,對(duì)于機(jī)器的過(guò)分探求可能是偏離比賽初衷的。 當(dāng)然,James也提到了搬一臺(tái)專(zhuān)業(yè)的磨豆機(jī)到比賽現(xiàn)場(chǎng)真的是一件很麻煩的事情。所以,到2016屆WBC時(shí),Mahlkonig公司會(huì)在比賽場(chǎng)放置30臺(tái)K30 Vario 供選手們使用,選手們可能就無(wú)需費(fèi)心要運(yùn)輸設(shè)備到比賽地了。而且,Matt也指出對(duì)于專(zhuān)業(yè)的咖啡師來(lái)說(shuō),適應(yīng)K30并不是難事。 相較而言,"Milk Course"的變動(dòng)是影響更加深遠(yuǎn)的,某種程度上講,它可能會(huì)影響到未來(lái)精品咖啡的發(fā)展。
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WBC的比賽內(nèi)容主要是由三個(gè)部分組成的:Espresso,Cappuccino 和 Signaturecoffee 即濃縮咖啡、卡布奇諾和創(chuàng)意咖啡。以往對(duì)于卡布奇諾的要求是相當(dāng)嚴(yán)格的,單份的濃縮咖啡和打發(fā)牛奶混合,奶泡的厚度不低于一厘米,容器的大小也被限定在150~180ml之間。怎樣在如此嚴(yán)格的要求之下做出美味而又凸顯出咖啡風(fēng)味的飲品一直以來(lái)都是參賽者的巨大挑戰(zhàn)。新的變動(dòng)把"cappuccino course"替換成了"milk coffee course",對(duì)于奶泡的厚度不再做硬性的要求,而且容器的大小也放寬到了30~240ml。 關(guān)于milkcoffee course的變動(dòng),WCE上的解釋是: After fifteen years of focusing on a single definition of a milk drink on the WBC stage, we think it’s time to open up the milk beverage course to something that better represents wher
e we are today as an industry: open-minded to anything new and delicious. 在整個(gè)咖啡產(chǎn)業(yè)當(dāng)中,牛奶跟咖啡的混合無(wú)疑是最被大眾接受和喜愛(ài)的。但是在WBC的舞臺(tái)上,對(duì)牛奶咖啡的限定已經(jīng)有十五年了。所以,從下屆開(kāi)始WBC的比賽將接受各國(guó)選手們?cè)谀炭系淖灾飨敕ā? "I’m also looking forward to seeing new combinations of milk and coffee being explored."Matt 談到牛奶咖啡上的變動(dòng)時(shí),也表達(dá)了對(duì)未來(lái)咖啡師們創(chuàng)造力的期待,但是更多的可能也是對(duì)咖啡行業(yè)的一些隱憂(yōu)。 "The freedom to choose the volume of the drink will promote laziness and could result in the stagnation of Roasting and Barista technique." 對(duì)咖啡和牛奶比例的放松很有可能會(huì)讓咖啡師和烘焙師懈怠下來(lái)。目前,很多的咖啡烘焙都會(huì)存在風(fēng)味發(fā)展不夠的問(wèn)題,許多人會(huì)把淺度烘焙和風(fēng)味發(fā)展弄混淆。以往對(duì)于固定比例的卡布奇諾,若是咖啡豆的風(fēng)味發(fā)展不夠就會(huì)導(dǎo)致飲品寡淡,平衡感弱的問(wèn)題,從而促使烘焙師向完整發(fā)展風(fēng)味的方向來(lái)改善,而現(xiàn)在只需要在混合時(shí)減少牛奶的比例就能掩蓋掉咖啡豆的發(fā)展不完全。顯然,這一點(diǎn)對(duì)于廣大咖啡師和烘焙師技藝的提升是沒(méi)有好處的。 "I love me a good Cappuccino. Well made Cappuccinos are rare. These changes could put them on the endangered list." 當(dāng)下一杯完美的卡布奇諾其實(shí)已經(jīng)比較少見(jiàn)了,Matt擔(dān)心規(guī)則的改變會(huì)讓完美卡布奇諾的出現(xiàn)率更少。 同樣的擔(dān)心也來(lái)自于2009屆的WBC冠軍Gwilym Davies,"The capp is the most difficult milk drink to make: the balance of foam depth, bubble size and temp is a skill baristas should have, like being able to pour a classic capp, not just a swan. I like a 5oz single Capp made well and it is very difficult to get, I fear it will now be even harder.” 卡布奇諾制作當(dāng)中,對(duì)于奶泡的厚度,溫度和均勻度是咖啡師的必備技能,所以一杯傳統(tǒng)的卡布奇諾是很難得的,Gwilym當(dāng)然也不希望看到它出現(xiàn)的越來(lái)越少。 "Opening up the definition for the Milk Course will increase judging subjectivity and bias enormously." 還有,放寬了要求實(shí)際上評(píng)委的評(píng)判上增加了不小的難度。在WBC的比賽當(dāng)中,評(píng)委的打分確實(shí)是有很大一部分是受主觀因素影響的。下屆比賽當(dāng)中,選手端到評(píng)委面前的牛奶咖啡可能是以往從未出現(xiàn)過(guò)的,評(píng)委對(duì)此的評(píng)判就會(huì)很容易的指向個(gè)人的喜好。這點(diǎn)上,規(guī)則的變化加重了比賽的不確定性。相應(yīng)的,WBC的評(píng)判標(biāo)準(zhǔn)也是會(huì)在接下來(lái)做出變動(dòng)的。————————— 總的來(lái)講,比賽規(guī)則的變化,對(duì)于參賽者來(lái)說(shuō)是增加了自由發(fā)揮的空間的,比賽的關(guān)注點(diǎn)還是依然集中在咖啡師的技藝和咖啡本身上的。WBC這項(xiàng)全世界咖啡師和咖啡愛(ài)好者的盛會(huì)也依然是非常值得去關(guān)注的。 “I like that there has been change, the best thing a
bout rule changes is that things are happening, there is nothing like change to get people thinking & doing.” Gwilym的話(huà)在最后再次被引用到,"變換的事物讓我欣喜,規(guī)則變化最好的一點(diǎn)就是它讓很多事情有了發(fā)生的契機(jī),因?yàn)橹挥凶儞Q才會(huì)促使人們?nèi)ニ伎己托袆?dòng)。" 有句中國(guó)古話(huà)正是這么講的——"窮則變,變則通,通則久"。也許,變和通對(duì)于整個(gè)精品咖啡行業(yè)來(lái)說(shuō)未嘗不是一個(gè)利于持續(xù)發(fā)展的時(shí)期。
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版權(quán)信息:以上文章由咖啡沙龍自主翻譯編輯,未經(jīng)同意不得轉(zhuǎn)載原文來(lái)自:baristahustle.com原文作者:Matthew Perger原文翻譯:咖啡沙龍翻譯小組 Sean Yin侵權(quán)請(qǐng)聯(lián)系:weixin@coffeesalon.com投稿合作:tips@coffeesalon.com
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延伸閱讀:黃偉老師對(duì)WCE此次官方消息的新聞翻譯,點(diǎn)擊“閱讀原文”查看